You mentioned somewhere that you boulder. Lots of serious climbing coaches – for example the Anderson brothers in Rock Climber’s Training Manual, but also Austrian national coach Reini Scherer and that’s about as serious as it gets – recommend “limit bouldering sessions” where you do a long and thorough warm up, then the actual workout is three or four attempts each on a few *really hard* boulder problems where you can only just do a move or two, with several minutes between attempts. Sounds not unlike Dai Greene’s session that you describe: actual contact time on the hard boulders is maybe 2-3 minutes tops.
Most people underestimate how hard maximum efforts really have to be and how much rest you need between them, and end up turning every session into an endurance workout.
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